Air, remedy light, hospital energy. Three words that define the CHANEL 2013 Prêt-à-Porter Spring-Summer collection. In the light filled Grand Palais, find the models lightly strut on a solar panel inspired ground and between huge metallic structures.
A cotton tweed little black jacket with ivory pearls and leather trim opens the show. Followed by a « dress-skirt », a newcomer in the CHANEL wardrobe. Clean lines, sleeveless, punctuated by discrete pockets, it defines a new ultra-contemporary look.
In unprecedented proportions,the CHANEL jacket turns into a bolero « to lengthen the silhouette. » Wider, with shortened sleeves, it is worn with a very short skirt dress or cotton that fit up the waist to under the breast.
Gradually, the color intensifies. To the black and white sets are added fine tweed jackets with double sided edges, deep blue or bright aubergine, with matching pants. The minidresses, ultramarine blue or green in spring, are adorned with a wide collar . A vermilion patent leather overcoat lined with plaid black and white enhances a dress in ivory cotton.
Airy, long black chiffon dresses are adorned with graceful windmills of multicolored silk. Others are slightly cushioned, barely padded. Nothing weighs down the silhouette.
Finally, as though printed three dimensionally on the dress-skirts, the flowered embroidery close the show with florish.
For this new collection, Karl Lagerfeld disrupts the codes of the house. « No necklaces, no camellias, no stripes. » The only identifiable element, the iconic pearl , oversized, either around the neck or sewn as buttons on the wrist, also stitched on jackets, dresses, skirts or on a pair of tomato colored leather mittens. Hoods in the transparent plastic complete the silhouette, and a « maxi bag » is used to accessorize a swimsuit decorated with the double C. The two-tone shoe is revisited in the form of transparent black-tipped pumps or strappy sandals and striped soles.
Once again as we just witnessed Karl Lagerfeld demonstrates seemingly endless creativity.